To recognize good olive oil, look for four things: a producer named with a name and address, a dark and well-sealed container, a clear, filtered oil, and a fresh, fruity aroma with a slight bitterness and a pungent kick in the throat. A rancid, musty or flat smell is a sign of defects.
I am Elia Fuster Rius, olive oil sommelier (ESAO) and judge at the EIOOC. These are the seven things I look at first, even before tasting an oil.
“Extra virgin” does not automatically mean good olive oil
“Extra virgin olive oil” is the highest legal category. It requires a maximum acidity of 0.8% and the absence of sensory defects, as assessed by an official tasting panel. That is a necessary condition, but not a guarantee of quality in the glass. Within the category there are big differences: an oil can meet the requirements and still be flat, characterless, or already “tired” from poor storage. That is why it is worth looking at the following points.
1. What does the label say?
- “Extra virgin” mention: the highest quality category.
- Producer: the producer’s name and address must always be shown. If they are missing, that is a bad sign.
- Origin: country and, if possible, region. A single estate or region is better than a blend “from EU and non-EU countries”.
- Harvest year: the fresher, the better. Unfortunately it is not on every label. Ask if it is missing.
- Olive variety (e.g. Arbequina, Picual, Hojiblanca): a sign of a producer who knows their oil.
2. How is the oil packaged?
Light and heat make olive oil age faster. Dark glass, tins or bag-in-box are good choices. A clear bottle in a shop window is a bad sign.
3. Is the oil filtered?
A good extra virgin olive oil must be filtered. In unfiltered oil, water and residues stay in suspension. They begin to ferment and harm the quality. All the oils I sell are filtered.
4. What does it smell and taste like?
A good olive oil has three positive attributes:
- Fruitiness: freshly cut grass, tomato plant, the smell of fresh olives.
- Bitterness: on the tongue, like artichoke or chicory.
- Pungency: a tingling in the throat, sometimes a small cough. It is not a defect.
If the oil smells of old nuts, wax, paint, mould or cellar, it is rancid or defective.
5. How does it feel in the mouth?
It should feel fresh and lively, neither greasy nor flat. Fruitiness, bitterness and pungency should be in balance.
6. What about the price?
Quality has a cost: harvest, extraction, filtration and storage. A strikingly low price for a “premium” extra virgin olive oil is a warning sign. A high price alone proves nothing. Ask about the producer, the harvest and the origin.
7. Beware of marketing terms
Words such as “pure”, “light” or “mild” do not correspond to any official category. They often flatter an oil that has no defects, but no character either.
Good oil or defective oil?
| Good oil | Defective oil | |
|---|---|---|
| Smell | fresh, grassy, fruity | rancid, musty, waxy |
| Taste | fruity, slightly bitter, pungent | flat, greasy, vinegary |
| Appearance | clear, filtered | cloudy, with sediment |
| Label | producer with address, origin | no information |
| Packaging | dark, sealed | clear, exposed to sunlight |
How to taste it at home
Pour a little oil into a small glass, warm it in your hand, smell it, then take a small sip. Draw air in through your mouth as you do, as you would with wine.
Frequently asked questions
Is bitter olive oil bad?
No. Bitterness and pungency are signs of a fresh, good oil.
How long does olive oil keep?
Use it as soon as possible, and within 18 to 24 months of the harvest date at the very most. Store it in a dark, cool place.
Does the colour matter?
No. Green or golden says nothing about quality.
Can I order olive oil online in Switzerland?
Yes. At L’Atelier des Saisons, delivery is free from CHF 100.
Keep reading
- How to Store Olive Oil: Shelf Life and 6 Rules for Fresh Flavor
- How to Taste Olive Oil at Home in 3 Steps
I taste every oil and check its lab analyses before selecting it. Browse my oils for dressings and for cooking, meet the producers or get to know me.
Author: Elia Fuster Rius, olive oil sommelier (ESAO), EIOOC judge.